spring shirt 2007

Filed under: Sewing — admin at 3:28 pm on Thursday, February 22, 2007


Remember when I made this shirt last year? It was really one of my first attempts at sewing clothing. I promised myself to make more out of this pattern, but never did. It was fun to see others in blogland making shirts from this pattern, whether from reading my blog or just stumbling upon in it in the pattern books.

Since making the Spring 2006 shirt, I have used more clothing patterns and have gained a bit more confidence in the process. Can’t say it has been easy, but I am proud that I have figured out a lot alone…coupled with cries of frustration! Why do I do this to myself? There are just so many cute fabrics and patterns out there that I can’t pass them all up! It is magical to watch a shirt come together- even if I have to tear out the seam a few time to get it right.

Okay, so here is what I learned:

- don’t think you can alter a pattern if you are a beginner and impulsive. I thought I wouldn’t like the exaggertated flared sleeves so I cut my arm pattern and learned the really hard way! After tearing up my shirt 3 times, that is right 3 times I realized that my snipping probably influenced the initial awkward fit.

- putting your project away for nearly a month really does help clear your brain. Sewing this shirt, after buying a new pattern because I HAD to get the sleeve piece literally took me 2 hours to make.

- never use a piece of fabric you REALLY love on a pattern you never have sewn…especially if you are a beginner and/or impulsive. I decided to put my shirt #1 into the scrap pile, saving it for something, but it was very hard to get to that point. The fabric of shirt #2 was cheap, clearance fabric…something like $2.30 a yard. Not bad.

- snipping the threads fairly short as you sew really makes the finishing a lot nicer.

Above is the obligatory shot of me in the Spring 2007 shirt, by the way, it is Simplicity 3887. What does one do while shooting…look straight at the camera, chop off the head, look away?

Now some questions:

- how do you finish the raw edges? I know after a few times of washing, there will be some unraveling which is just so annoying. I don’t have a serger or a lot of patience, so what do some of you recommend?

- the sleeves on the shirt are fine, but I sort of feel like I am wearing a choir robe or an angel. I can’t really remember what I did, but I think I shaved off an inch of the length. This really screwed me up. The neckline and the arm hole did not match up AND it made the bust of the shirt really tight.

- I think I made the shirt a bit too big, but I fear in making it too small. I am usually a 10/12 or a medium depending on the style or store (I hate the sizing going on), but opted for size 14. I have narrow shoulders, but sort of a large chest and don’t really like looking as if I am busting out…especially at the park or library, you know what I mean. I measured myself and I think I need someone to help me because by the measurements I should be making an 18…uhhh, I don’t think so since 14 is kind of big, but I am fine with it. Any tips?

- When making notches, I find cut little Vs into the fabric is a lot easier. Is this okay?

- Would anyone like my second pattern with the crazy arms? I will gladly try to transfer the pattern onto a large piece of paper so that you will have a unedited arm pattern. First person that reads this and WANTS the pattern, leave a comment and you get it.

The Spring 2006 shirt I referred to is Simplicity 4589 and this year’s pick is Simplicity 3887. I know the neckline is the same, but this year’s pick has some varied styles that I really liked…check it out. I decided to use laundered cotton for my shirt, but you can see on the pattern cover the shirt is made of rayon. The cotton worked out fine if you are not so into rayon like I am- plus, I don’t think I could handle that type of fabric and sewing. Yikes.

17 Comments »

Comment by melissa f.

February 22, 2007 @ 5:12 pm

i just zigzag my edges. there is also a foot called an “overcast foot” which uses the zig zig stitch but prevents the fabric from rolling and bunching up. sort of like a poorman’s serger.

to narrow the sleeves it’s important to start about half way down and start gradually increasing the seam allowances. for a beginner, you’re able to see how it fits, but you can unpick and resew if you don’t like what you’ve done.

or you could line it up with a shirt you own and like and cut off the sleeves, to make them short.

Comment by Ali

February 22, 2007 @ 8:01 pm

I would really realy like to have a go at that pattern. I’m trying to overcome my phobia about making clothes…

Love the neckline.

Comment by sjsd

February 22, 2007 @ 9:24 pm

really cute!! i may have to have a go at one of those shirts. what a keen eye you have…i can look at patterns until i am blue in the face and not get past how hokey they look…just not a visionary in that way i guess. our m.f.c stuff is coming along, i look forward to shipping it off to you! that’s for the “what you learned” i, too can be a bit impulsive.

Comment by Sharon

February 22, 2007 @ 11:11 pm

Hi! I’ve been lurking for a while now…ever since you had the “made for China” post(which I really wanted to help out with but never got around to telling you that…)

Your shirt is cute! To finish the seams, I would do like Melissa suggested - zig zag the seams. If you don’t have a machine capable of doing a zig zag stitch, you can always finish the edges by cutting them with a pinking shears.

As far as the size of the shirt - it sounds to me as if you may need to start with a smaller pattern size (for your shoulder area) and then do a full bust adjustment[FBA] for your chest area. I can give you some tips if you’re interested.

Comment by Krista

February 23, 2007 @ 3:09 am

It’s really, really cute. That’s all I have to say :) And looks, maybe, possibly, pregnant mama friendly? Would you recommend?

I am loving the questions you’ve asked, as I’ve asked all the same ones to myself. I will be stalking your comments for answers… thanks!

Comment by autumn

February 23, 2007 @ 8:57 am

What a great top!I love the pattern and fabric you chose. Thanks for the questions…like Krista I’ll probably be checking some of your comments for answers. I am interested in attempting some skirts for myself this summer. (on a different note, I’ve got 4 linus blankets ready to mail and hope to make at least one more to add to those)

Comment by Bee

February 23, 2007 @ 9:44 am

Wow, yes! Pinking shears are a great idea. I don’t know why I didn’t think of that! I also think that sewing pattern sizes don’t always coordinate with clothing sizes and I always notice that I can expect them to come out much bigger than expected. I don’t know if I am just skimping too much on seam allowances or what, but even when I try to make sure my seam allowances are as big as they are supposed to be, the patterns still seem to come out pretty large. If I sew something for my 11 year old, I still use a size 6 or 8 pattern. I have gotten tired of sewing something her size and having to wait until it is out of style for it to fit her!

Comment by erin

February 23, 2007 @ 10:07 am

To finish the seams, I do like Melissa says - zig zag all the way. It is fast and easy and does the job.

Sizing is so screwy. I have been taking a class to make a lined jacket and thought I would be making an 18 (I wear a 12 off the rack), but the instructor had me make a 16 and do a full bust adjustment and add some width to the hips. I am also long waisted so I had to add a bunch to the length (some at the bust and some at the waist). I had to make three versions in muslin before I cut the real fabric and I am so glad I did! The best part is now I know it will fit and if I ever want to make it again, I have a pattern to go from.

Good luck! It looks like a good pattern.

Comment by beki

February 23, 2007 @ 11:01 am

I agree with everyone else, zig-zag the edges.

About the sizing, like Sharon said, you need a smaller size with a full bust adjustment. How I determine my size is to measure my upper bust, then use that as my bust size. I then do a full bust adjustment for the difference in that measurement and my full bust. Oh, and always, always flat measure your pattern and measure yourself. It sounds like a pain and a lot of steps, but it does give you a better fitting garment. I’m sure that was as clear as mud!

Comment by Carrie

February 23, 2007 @ 11:35 am

For ease and time, I second the idea of either zig-zag or pinking shears. My mom taught me how to do a flat-fell seam which isn’t hard, but more time-consuming. I only use it if I’m giving something as a gift. Because my own explanation of it would surely only be confusing, I’ve turned to my DK Complete Book of Sewing reference book.

1. Stich a plain seam, wrong sides together. Trim one seam allowance to 1/4″. Opening out the fabric, press the untrimmed seam allowance over the trimmed allowance.

2. Tuck the untrimmed seam edge under teh trimmed edge and press. Stitch the seam allowances onto the garment close to the fold.

Here’s another version with graphics:
http://www.sewing.org/enthusiast/html/el_sewamflatfell.html

Comment by Emily

February 23, 2007 @ 11:58 am

Great blouse! Here are some ideas on finishing the seams:
1. the quickest and easiest is the pinking shears.
2. Next up would be zigzagging, but I find that it pulls the seam in a little bit unless you are using a serger.
3. a nice a strong way that doesn’t take too much more time is to pink the edge, press both seam allowances to one side, and then topstitch that down on the front, either 1/8″ from the seam or 1/4″.
4. A beautiful finish that works well for the straight side seams of a blouse and the straight seam of the sleeve is a french seam: If you seam allowance is 5/8, then sew a seam of 1/4 with WRONG sides together. Press it open and turn the RIGHT sides together and sew a seam 3/8. Voila, you have just encased your raw edge, it looks fantastic, and it sounds like a lot but it’s only the extra step of one seam plus pressing.
5. I usually do the french seam for the straight seams and for the curvy armhole I trim it to about 1/4 and then zigzag both raw edges (together at the same time).

Comment by Alicia A.

February 23, 2007 @ 6:45 pm

You’re inspiring me to go look through the Spring blouse patterns.

SO cute!

Comment by Thimbleanna

February 23, 2007 @ 6:58 pm

Love your new shirt! Just a little history on sizing…Pattern companies are still publishing to roughly the same size standards that they did 30 - 40 (and probably longer) years ago. Ready made clothing manufacturers, however, have adjusted the numbers downward for the same sizes. This makes women feel better about themselves (they think they’re an 8 when they’re really a 12 or something like that) and therefore increases sales. Pretty tricky! Size is just a number….

Comment by mary

February 24, 2007 @ 1:19 am

Great shirt. I was going to comment on using the zig-zag; I finally used it this week to finish some pants, it took less time than I thought it would and really cleaned up the pants.

Comment by Randi

February 24, 2007 @ 12:22 pm

Hi, You can do a zigzag stitch on the seams or you can cut the edges with pinking shears. The zigzag will work the best, though.

I think your shirt is cute. I was using the same fabric last night to make a quilt!

Comment by Krista

February 25, 2007 @ 1:55 am

Hi again… I am learning a lot from your commentors.
Just a note I learned this weekend from a vintage baby pattern; yes, it is okay to clip the notches ‘in’ instead of snipping around the little triangles. I just read that on the pattern (Simplicity) and it calls it the ‘easy clip method’. As long as your seam allowance is generous (5/8″) it is totally fine. Which I’m sure if you’ve already done it, you’re ahead of me :)

Comment by Aunt Robin

February 27, 2007 @ 1:23 pm

Hi Carol,
How fun to get so caught up in sewing a top! It’s very cute! I wish we could sew together sometime… Right now I’m sewing 4″ patches together to make a new piece of fabric for a cross-over tying vest. I’m afraid it might be too wild… it’s purple and red watery looking fabrics, but I love those colors together and hope it will be just right! And I love reading about your China project. How nice to let people share in the fun! I think we all love to help out and share if we just know what’s needed! Lovely idea!

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